Granny Naxos is a callin'

 



48 hours in Mykonos, whilst not quite a blur, has been done at a fair old lick.  And even this morning the alarm was set to beat the heat and get a Saturday morning run in with Chrissi.  My scouting yesterday meant that we had a coastal route mapped that followed the road around to the next settlement, Omos. Barely saw it if I'm honest, been between 2 headlands I was either out of breath running up, or recovering on the downhills from running up!



Fairly pleased with that effort and always lifts the mood to start the day. That combined with turquoise sea and great views over the town put a spring in our step for the first couple of hours. We sprang down into the town to little bakery we used yesterday, but today sat outside with our breakfast and watched the world go by.





It was then time to check out of our AirBnb which I'd like to give a bit of a thumbs up to in the blog should anyone be looking at a short stay in Mykonos. Reasonably priced , great central location, and a feeling of being in amongst the real people of Mykonos, a family next door living their life as normal (often extended their front room into the alleyway, sitting outside for much of the day), quite the contrast to the hedonism and partying that maybe just a few streets away. So I am saying I think, you can have the best of both worlds at the Grey and White Chora



It was time to make our final trip through those tight little alleys down the harbour, and a water taxi over to the main port.  First chance to see one of these Island ports in full swing, it was manic.  Big ferries in and out in the blink of an eye, sometimes 2 or 3 at a time. Each time, 5 minutes of chaos, people piling off, people piling on, and then suddenly a strange calm and emptiness port side until another appeared and the whole circus began again.  We joined the circus when our ferry appeared, by the time we were in our seats, it was moving off towards Naxos.  I'm not joking, these were pretty big beasts too.




earlier bakery purchase wolfed down en route to Naxos 


The crossing to Naxos was a mere 40 mins and we were rustled off the ferry in no time at all. With another 2 ferries also arriving in Naxos simultaneously it was carnage on the quayside, a temple of Apollo on a nearby hill and a female port official with a whistle the only sign of order in the maelstrom. We fought our way through to a taxi rank where it was wheeler dealer time, the taxi drivers working out how many people they could get in their cabs for different trips. We were squeezed in next to a couple of other younger backpackers who were dropped off in the town of Naxos before we were taken out into the wilds along the coastal road to a settlement called Galini.






We have returned to hitting the jackpot of Airbnbs though. This pink house, almost built into the rock, set amongst the lemon, orange trees and vines.  We need to find out a little of its history, am assuming farming back in the day but now it hosts several people in a range of rooms.  We can only speak for ours, but huge character, wooden decor, historic vibes but with enough mod cons to cross the traveller / home comfort divide.  Our room also right in front of the pool.  I am still crossing that divide between backpacker and tourist, handwashing my own clothes at this point just like they would have done in the sinks of yesteryear.  It turns out I am Granny Naxos and I loves it.






We took a short stroll into the village of Galini knowing there was a shop for provisions but also knowing it was not likely to be full of choice. We got the basics should there be any risk of starving and got ourselves acquainted with the position of our lodgings. On return it was pool time which I think will be an important feature of the next few days.  And then glamorous Granny Naxos, the mother of the property owner, introduced herself to us and made us feel completely welcome with some sweet coffee and cherry ritual that truly meant we were part of the family for the next 5 days.







Our evening stroll was to sample the other outlet in the village, the restaurant called Platia. Again we were welcomed like long lost friends, sampling some local rose from the vineyards, complimentary honey cake for dessert, after some vegetarian mezze (stuffed aubergines, and zuchinni croquettes) along with local sausage. No sign of us going hungry after all. And the bar across the road had a TV, so you can guess where we might be for the football.  The only TV in the village it feels like!!








Comments

  1. My knowledge of Naxos is, I'm afraid, close to zero. The only reason I know the name at all is that I've eaten in a Greek Restaurant, in the town of Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada called Naxos Grill & Bar!! So, I look forward to you providing insights over the next few days.

    I love the pictures of the ports - the sense of craziness you describe is well evidence with the photos. I'm also amazed at the colour of the sea in your photos - such a deep blue, it really looks inviting.

    I'm intrigued by your accommodation, if you hadn't told me where it was I'd have thought it was an adobe house in New Mexico or Colorado (apart from the colour, which would be yellow or brown in the USA). I wonder if the adobe style is simply reflective of hot climates, but haven't seen anywhere which looks so much like it outside of the USA.

    The coffee and cherry liquor were clearly a welcome treat, they look delicious.

    The meal also meets with my standards, though I'm not overly enamoured by chips, which seem to be a big part of the diet out there! The photos of their food on their website (thanks for the link) look delicious too. I wonder if you'll be tempted by the cookery classes they offer!!

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    Replies
    1. we have looked at the cookery class / wine tasting option. Today is a bit of taking stock, still haven't quite dug fully into the history of this building. Our few days here may be the most limited in terms of ground covered but deep in immersing ourselves in life in one small part of the Island. I'll be sure to dig up a gem or 2 over the next few days. Your New Mexico / Colarado reflection is apt, it certainly has a feel of the wild west as soon as we take a few steps out of the more populated village footprint!

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  2. Can't believe you are running in that heat, no matter what time it is - phew!!!! Nice to suggest Mykonos for a holiday, hope one of your friends takes it up as it will be good for you all to have a reminiscent chat. We saw you in the Naxos room on Sunday, saw Chrissi swimming - pleased with that.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. taken a foot off the gas, no other choice out here, done a few laps of the pool mainly. Be back on it when I get home, Chicago Marathon tik tok....

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