Travel and Transition

 

So our time on Naxos was drawing to a close, the more restful part of the trip. And it has been, lack of good air conditioning in the heat perhaps the only downside but keeps things real. Also brought a faithful holiday arch enemy back into the limelight.... less said the better ...

We didn't see our hosts before we left, not for the want of trying, so we have a debt. Like the Lannisters, we always pay, but they do need to front up with the bill!

Final bit of tidying up and packing before heaving the old backpack on, climbing the steep drive way from the cave house (well, it has to be in a hollow of sorts) and made the final walk (we have done it many times) into Galini. Too early for people to be out sadly, I was expecting some sort of guard of honour from our friends in Flea as we marched out of town.

The backpackers hit the bus stop, and were whisked fairly promptly down to the port in a rather swish black automobile. Last chance to look back at the valley at our pink home and indeed the coast line of Naxos, which has been quite breathtaking. 

The port we were of course familiar with, but ever ingratiating ourselves with the local tradition we got involved with their morning social, floating around the very calm harbour with the oldies. Seems a real socialisation piece here, especially women, having a dip and a natter.

We dried off, and found a cafe for brunch/breakfast. Turned out to be the best one we have had here for quality and value. 10 euros got me jam, loads of bread, juice, capacinno, bacon, eggs, tomatos. Banging.

The Blue Star Ferry was our ticket out of here, and we then moved into full travel mode. Crammed into the holding room in the terminal like a cattle shed. I found an online tracker to see where our Pride of Delos was , and it was very much on time. Hardly the days of bartering with a fisherman asking them to take you over to the next Island, watching your dot move towards you on a screen like an 80s computer game.

It did get a bit more primitive when it arrived though, I don't know how the Greeks do it. Absolute mania as I have said before, whistles, shouting, charging, boarding. A window back to some of those wars against the Persians no doubt, but they ever emerge victorious, and as soon as you are on the ferry it is moving almost instantaneously. Must be different health and safety at Dover as everything seems so much slower and more serious there!

Felt a bit weary on the crossing, but we found a lovely table by the window, read a bit, wrote a bit, and both of us dropped off a bit. We were soon 2 hrs in and the massive cliffs of Santorini on our port or starboard side, not sure, I was half asleep. It was then back into battle, fighting our way downstairs to get our rucksacks, and then waiting for the cargo doors to open. The grinding noise as they lowered did make me think again we were about getting ready to charge at an enemy.

No actual enemy on the other side, just a lovely taxi driver pretending to be me. He whisked us away, very steep climb out of the port. Not for the first time on this trip I was pleased not to be driving.  The road up was scary, and the stopping and stating to give way to buses coming down ... you need a special driving test for that kind of hill start.

Only a few miles to our final Airbnb which actually feels more like  a small hotel in a resort called Perivolos.  All checked in by mid afternoon and back to a bit of air conditioning which was not to be sniffed at.  Feeling the heat a bit at the moment as you can tell, and even on our first walk around the resort we are situated in, definitely felt a little tired and dizzy. It turned out that a smoothie and a milkshake were a good antidote for that, and felt well enough to take in a bit of the volcanic beach scenery and landscape, before a quick change and an evening meal.

Greek night at Coralli caught our attention. I would have thought every night is Greek night here, but perhaps the restaurants take turns.The service was really good, the plucking mandolins not all that bad, and the occasional outbreak of audience participation and clapping felt very communal, Some spicy cheese (just like last night), tomato fritters (like bhajis, and really like bhajis with the spicy cheese) and then a local dish recommended by a friend at home, big beef stafakas, rice and tomato stew, wholesome.

Packed a lot in today, felt we had perhaps transformed from backpackers to more traditional holidaymakers by the end. Lets see if that continues as we head towards the end of our vacation.